Students' protests

Just a short note before I'm going to write more later on. Probably you have heard about the stuents' protests in Seoul which by the time have become characterized by violence and fights with the police. Don't worry - since I don't live in the centre I'm far away from all that and have only read about it on the internet. Tonight I saw some pictures on TV in a restaurant for the first time and was shocked...

Another video

Since I haven’t taken any pictures during the last days or concerning the last post, here there’s a „nice“ video about Seoul:

Strawberry juice!

So, now there’s finally a new entry. Yesterday I got to know that I had to take another health record, from a Korean doctor – the international health certificate from our lovely public health officer in Greifswald wasn’t sufficient anyway, even though it was issued in English.

Otherwise all the other required documents are accepted – the criminal record with apostille (aaaah…) has arrived yesterday from Germany and the lawyer had negotiatet that we don’t need any University lecture transcripts any longer. For me, these would have been the only missing thing and damned me to work off the books because they would have been almost impossible to get from here.

So I went to Korean University Hospital with Tina today. It was so nice from here; without any knowledge of Korean it would have been difficult for me. And she already knew the procedure – and staffs there recognized her at once. I was so lucky – instead of expected two or thee hours everything didn’t take longer than fifteen minutes:

measuring height, size and blood pressure, testing view, paying 96.000 won, x-raying lungs, giving urine sample – and, kept for the end – taking blood. And the latter went like clockwork… Taking a number and then a seat at a long office-kind-of-table with five chairs (à la assembly line or like in an Italian post or bank office), putting the arm on it, and in a jiffy, getting up again. And out!

Drinking a fresh squeezed strawberry juice and strolling across Korean University’s campus… After my last test in Greifswald, only two weeks ago, I had almost fainted because of my cold, stress and the heat, I was quite apprehensive – and when I then hadn’t even seen a couch in the room, oh dear…! But I was soooo brave ;o)

On Tuesday I will get my results and I hope they won’t me consider being to tall for being allowed to work in Korea nor find anything serious in all these tests…

The juice booth which Tina had shown me was THE discovery – there you can get a wonderful refreshing mix from any kinds of fruits and ice for only 1000 won (!)and without any stomach trouble. I’m a little sceptic about things like that… But from now on I will go there every day – it’s just around the corner, beside the subway station.

Tina also showed me the campus, how impressive it is – next time I will take pictures there. After having eaten in the students dining hall (me: squid soup, hmmm!) we went back home. I prepared my class, went to work and had a nice evening with my class. Suddenly, in the first break, they came up with many different kinds of cake and now on day four I had the feeling that the atmosphere among people had unclenched a lot.

So we stroke up a conversation during the second break and my curiousness („Why do you learn German?“, “Do you plan to go to Germany?”) was rewarded with counterquestions like “Why did you come to Korea?”, “Oh, you’ve been to China – do you speak Chinese?” and they really made me say a sentence ;o)

I’d be glad to continue to teach these guys – temporarily this is only the pre-course which will be finished already by tomorrow.

First class

Last night I had my first class. I teach every evening this week, from 5.15 till 9.15, a pre-course for another intense course in July. There are 12 beginners and except two women they’re students. But I don’t know much about them so far. They’re nice and even if they’re quite reserved – especially the guys – we have been laughing a lot. They also got used to class room activities, after initial hesitations – I’m only asking myself when I’ll be able to get used to their names? There are three times the same last names (Lee and Kim) but the first names are so complicated. But I will try, it worked out in China as well!

I noticed that the German pronounciation seemes to be easier for Koreans than Chinese; the sounds in our languages must be similar though. But there is no [f]! Lucky, my students already know that from learning English!

Lemon tree - Korean version

I wouldn't want to deny you the (probable) Korean sommer hit. Heeeelp – I have heard that all too often, suspiciously…

Soccer and barbecue

Tonight there was the exciting soccer match between North and South Korea. Exciting because of the fact that North Korea had refused to play on South Korean ground only a week ago and suggested neutral territory only a week ago. But now the match was being held here.

[Exciting not in the sense of a good soccer match, rather boring… And why would they always scream out loud “Toooor” (German (?) for “goal”) whenever the ball gets somehow close to the goal? We would only do that for a score ;o)]

Some people watched the game on the streets – we did in a restaurant with huge screen. I would have loved to go to the World-Cup-stadium where some spectators were holding up the all-Korean flag, a huge one!

In the restaurant weh ad some barbecue – on a metal plate in the middle of the table. I knew this Korean-style barbecue from China but to wrap the meat into lettuce leaves, with sauce, pickled vegetables and some rice was a new experience to me.

Second walk around town

Today Lena and I went to a shopping district which was swarmed with mostly young people. Here a lot reminded of China and exactly here it becomes clear what is happening in China right now. Much of Seoul’s commercial face is simply spilled over to Chinese cities; Kitsch & Co. have been copied and imitated by the Chinese. Here you’ll find all that in even bigger dimensions – and I thought that China was extreme…! On one side I mean the offered products in their kind and quantities but also the shopping-and-selling-mentality on the other one. The latter is defined by “loud (flashy) and colourful (also flashy)” and shops, where young sellers are clapping their hands to yell for customers, are additionally showered with noisy “music”. But like this you won’t convince people to buy things, you might think, Europeans would be scared off…? And that’s what we haven’t got so far…

Sunday lunch

That’s what I had for lunch today, I HAD to try it and it wasn’t too bad. To have something like this at home on a Sunday is quite practical… But later I’ll go outside and tonight we’re going to have a real meal again – hopefully soccer besides: there will be the qualification match between North and South Korea for the next world championships and this historical event I can’t miss. Unfortunately I’ve got no one to come to the stadium… )o;

Riding the subway

Taking the subway in Seoul is quite easy to do. If you take a look at the whole network it seems to be quite unmanageable, but in detail you’ll find your way around very well. There are maps everywhere and fortunately the station names are written in latin alphabet as well. And there are station numbers which help. “127” is the 27th stop of line no. 1 and the following stations are indicated by numbers. Like this you can’t go the wrong direction – and don’t necessarily have to use the final station’s name for orientation.

A ride costs 900 won by using the rechargeable card or 1000 when buying the ticket at the counter. So far the trains had been quite empty and mostly I got a seat. Wonder how’s this going to be when I’ll be taking the subway to work in the mornings…

One tricky thing are the exits – one station can have up to ten. But if you feel like not being able to deal with that (like me walking up and down again several times ;o) – there are still the station maps which prevent you from getting totally lost at the end ;o)

Government crisis

As always I chose the right moment to come to a country. As you may have heard or read in the news (which you’ll also find at the bottom of this page), South Korea is in the middle of a government crisis for the moment. There are many demonstrations and rallies going on.

It’s mainly about the lifting of the embargo for beef from the U.S. But there seem to be other reasons for the public to be angry at and against the government which I haven’t seen through completely, so far.

First discovery tour

Yesterday I took the subway towards downtown, got off at the East gate and walked into the centre. At first it was quite confusing, even using the map, to find the right direction and I couldn’t either see where the sun was. Smog or steam, who know’s…?

I walked along the little river which runs parallel to the street I actually wanted to take. Here they did something good for the city by removing a road and substitute it by a lot of green and this little creek. So, beside the hills, here you’ll find another oasis in this huge city – used by many walkers.

In small side roads and on squares there are markets which remind of China – starting from the atmosphere till the things offered there: clothes, including socks; watches, jewellery and sunglasses as well as snacks and drinks here and there.

And also here it seems to be usual to have meals during work time and right in or in front of the shop. I had seen several people with tablets with many small bowls – the common way of eating as I’ve already seen in the restaurants.

Even though the most buildings are modern buildings from the eighties, once in a while you’ll discover small, older houses. But these lie completely hidden behind their tall brothers and appear as quite neglected.

My neighbourhood

Yesterday I went to buy some stuff and took a few pics in my neighbourhood.

Hot pot

Tonight Tina and I went to a hot-pot-restaurant. I addition to ingredients known from China, small bowls with mixed salads and kimchi as well as lettuce leaves with rice and roe on plates (similar to Sushi) were served. After having finished we got cold cinnamon-ginger-tea, hmmm… On our way back we saw many young people hanging out. Friday night – as in Europe and different from China people are here painting the town red!

Goshiwon

As I expected, there was another guy sitting at the entrance of my hostel, guesthouse or respectively “goshiwon” in Korean, but the move-in went perfectly – also without any knowledge of Korean.

In a goshiwon you have to take your shoes off at the entrance and put them into a small closet where everyone got his own case. There seems to be an endless number of rooms – and all of them are tiny, many even without a window. I have a huge one (window) and also a tiny little room where is place for a bed, desk and clothes rail.

This is a typical and popular way of living among students, also foreigners, which is simply the most favourable. I pay 290.000 Won a month and the best thing is? To have an internet connection is implicitness, every room got one. But also a fire detector which means that I can’t use candles, and I brought one… Another thing is that it is forbidden to drink alcohol in the rooms. And I have to go to the third or fourth floor to use toilets, bathroom and kitchen which are all shared. But there’s a lift and I think these conditions will be fine for three months.

Tina and Lena live just around the corner and the small nice shops remind a little more of China. In this neighbourhood there are quite a few convenience and drug stores, bakeries, many restaurants and flower shops. What exactly to get there I’ll be telling you next time!

German treat and move-out

Last night we’d had sausage, cheese and bread – a feast for Germans abroad, nothing really special for me after only two days of abstinence but really delicious. Today I already moved out even though they’d been assured of the possibility of staying longer.

I was lucky that my boss’s husband accompanied me in the same bus and helped me with my luggage. Without him I would have hardly found the stop where I had to change for the subway. There I got more help from an older man speaking English and showing me the lifts. About 15 minutes later I got off at “Anam” station which is close to Korean University and only a few minutes walk from my new home in the middle of a nice students’ neighbourhood – called gourmandize street by Tina.

The second day

Today we already left at eight – stimulating the biorhythm… In Goetheinstitute I looked at a few materials, got my first lessons for Monday and Tuesday and handed over all my documents which are needed for the immigration office. Now a lawyer is called in because of all the trouble they’ve had with applying for work permits and if I shouldn’t get the visa, then, well… “If they’re irritating us, we will irritate them as well…” The new Korean rules seem to work against what they’re meant to be for. By the way, they had been tightened because in December they’d caught a Canadian English teacher, employed in Korea, for child pornography in Thailand. At the same time they had discovered people with faked documents. And who has to pay for that…

For lunch Tina and I went to he students’ quarter of Korean University. I had dumplings filled with shrimps and vegetables – hmmmmm! And then we found a place to live for me so quickly! But about that I’m going to tell you tomorrow, after having moved inn.

I went back to Goetheinstitute by myself, taking subway and bus no. 14, the sun was shining and I crossed this nice quarter right beside my new workplace:

This night I’ll be sleeping in familial environments and had sausage, cheese and self made rye bread for dinner. And by the end of the day I can tell how much better I feel then yesterday.

The first evening

I wouldn’t even have dreamt of getting a warm meal that evening… Sitting in the kitchen, we had a nice conversation about this and that and were eating fried meat and small filled dumplings out of a pan in the middle of the table. And there was cucumber-kimchi, to which’s (rather light) spiciness I still have to get used again. Later on, after a glass of red wine, I could have fallen into my bed at once and actually I had planned to sleep early because I want to get used to the time difference, but then there was still… The question about internet! When my boss’s husband asked me whether I still wanted to use skype, my eyes flashed up immediately! So I could use the internet before going to my guestroom-bed but at least I did at 11 pm for not giving the jet lag a chance.

Finally arrived

After all the chaos and stress I finally arrived safely at the airport of Incheon. Having passed never-ending gangways I got my stamp which tells me to leave the country by September 18th. I got my baggage easily and discovered Mr. Cho at once. I knew he would pick me up and so we went to the centre by bus; the ride took about one hour and a half and I already heard some interesting things about Korea.

It will be natural comparing Korea with China and by looking out of the window already I already discovered two things which are completely different. I didn’t see a single bike and all in all the traffic seemed to be far more organized than and not as messy as I know it from Tianjin or Xi’an. Here you won’t find the mix of small old buildings and extremely modern huge skyscrapers but mainly long-established high-rise buildings. Modern trends haven’t taken the city by surprise but grown into it slowly over decades, grown old with it.

From the stop at „Hilton“hotel we’d been picked up by Goetheinstitutes own (!) van and reached our destination after a few minutes. The building is located at Nam mountain which appears as a green oasis in the middle of this huge city.

After I had been presented to everyone and marvelled at the institutes measures and equipment I went for lunch with three other German girls: Tina (teacher), Lena and Stephanie (trainees). In a tiny little restaurant I chose - with the others’ help - a rice dish with vegetables which was delicious and only about two Euros. After lunch Tina took me to the city centre so I could change money and already get a little impression. Also then I noticed that everything seems to be going on in a neat orderly fashion; many people are elegantly (and actually no one poorly) dressed and isn’t far as loud and dirty as in China. And even if it sometimes reminds of China here and there – the crowds are missing! The air is astonishingly bearable – and to the rain I got already used in Genoa ;o)

I got a few maps and guides (in German!) from the tourist information and a rechargeable card for busses and subway from Tina. Only once someone called “Hello hello”, no one is staring but despite all the differences I missed the colourful chaotic hustle and bustle from the streets of China. Somehow, these first impressions were a little deflating and I felt tired and out of place…

Back in Goetheinstitute I took my baggage and went with one of my bosses to her home. She had offered me to stay with her during the first days till I have found a place to live. After having picked up son and cat from the vet and her husband, we went to the district of Yonhuidong. The ride seemed to me like an eternity and I was about to fell asleep a few times. When I had taken off my shoes and replaced my trousers with a skirt, taken seat on the sofa with an aperitif and putting my feet up, I finally had the feeling of having arrived!

The flight

After having arrived the airport in perfect time I was met by a nasty surprise at the check-in where I even seemed to be the first person. The date of my return flight exceeds the 90 days’ duration of tourists’ visa-less stay in Korea for about a week. Since the computer system didn’t give any information about the possibility (for Germans) to get a visa inside the country later on I had to go to another counter where I had to call the embassy and ask for a verification. I started to feel queasy; there were two hours left til departure…

The embassy’s line was busy all the time so I went back to the counter and asked to try what they had recommended in second place: to change the reservation for the return ticket. But since I got a special offer, this wasn’t possible at all. The staffs were extremely nice but I was almost at my last nerve because it seemed like I wouldn’t be able to travel at all. I insisted on the fact that the information about the visa-application was indicated at the embassy’s website and this was finally printed out and shown to the people at the check-in desk. The supervisor was called and finally we got the announcement that I was allowed to go. 15 minutes before the check-in was supposed to close…

I had to hand in my 18-kilos (!) backpack as bulky goods, quickly open my hand luggage passing the security control and then I could head off for boarding. The latter turned out to be delayed because of technical problems but after all the fuss this didn’t bother me at all.

Already at that point I found it difficult to imagine that I might have trouble concerning the flight back when arriving Seoul. In the end I could always take a trip to Japan and getting the allowed 90 days for a tourist sojourn restarted when going back to Korea!

The flight was relaxed, service and food perfect and from Helsinki (FinnAir!) I had an interesting neighbour: a young Korean woman, who’s been active as a missionary in Ukraine. Her English was quite well, a little bit rusty maybe , so she talked to me in Russian sometimes ;o)

Before everything could really start…

… many things had to be done like dealing with the booking of the plane ticket, calling and visiting several offices, applying and paying for apostilles (now finally everyone knows what that is ;o), translating and legalizing certificates, undergoing another HIV- and TB-test and vaccinations, unpacking and packing in again, surviving a cold and besides all that: enjoying at least a little bit the sun and my week “off” in Greifswald with my friends and family.

And now – this summer instead of 2006 – I will go to Seoul for three months and teach there (during the rainy season!) German at Goetheinstitut.

Seoul? Korea? Olympic Games 1988... Hyundai... Taekwondo... Kimchi... North-South... Korean War...