Bush in Seoul II

Today on my way to work:

Bush in Seoul

Tonight the American president Bush arrived Seoul and I only hope that the still ongoing protest demonstrations against the Korean government won't get out off hand again...

A visitor!

I really met Kevin who came to Seoul for two days. I got to know him last year in Xi'an. After he couldn't get a visa to get back to China after a visit at home because of the Olympics he had decided to work in Korea for a while.

Friday night we met after my class and wanted to join people at the KOPRA-meeting. Finally we were sitting in the bar by ourselves and went to another one later on which was called "Jazz"bar but where there was played anything else but Jazz...

On Saturday we had some lunch together before Kevin headed off for Gimcheon in the South where he will be teaching English for two weeks.

Photo session on 1th August

On Friday I had to get up early because we had to correct some examinations again. We really made it to be finished til noon and had some lunch outside together then.

Hyoun-A, the DAAD assistant who works for us as a substitute during the summer vacation, and me added a little photo session afterwards:

The National museum...

... is, concerning its area, the largest museum in Asia and one of the biggest in the world. I didn't know that before I read about it after my visit there last week. One of my colleagues had the idea to hang out together so her husband drove us and her daughter to this huge complex which opened two years ago. That's why we didn't find it at first, they hadn't been there themselves... But finally we arrived at the enormous parking garage under the building.

The entrance is free and we spent more than three hours watching at least parts of Korean, Chinese, Japanese and Indian culture. I'm planning to go there again and take my time to take closer looks at everything inside the National museum. One one hand there were too many romping and screaming children and on the other hand there was too much to see for only one visit.

Jinyoung

I have a very nice student in my beginners' class. Her name is Jinyoung and she's very motivated to learn German. Just for fun, actually - she works in a clothes store and doesn't plan to study or work in Germany. She seems to be a little devoted and wants to hang out with me a lot - which is great, I like her, she seems to be different.

Once she asked me whether I wanted to try Korean 'Ddeok' and brought a whole box of them to Goetheinstitut. Hmm, I really enjoyed these soft, glutinous rice cakes with different fillings of fruits and nuts but you can't definitely not eat too many of them!

On last Sunday of July we spent the whole afternoon together. Jinyoung invited me for lunch to a very cosy, wooden decorated restaurant where I had Kimchi Jeon for the first time. Hmm, soooooo delicious...

After that we walked a bit through Insadong and I could get a closer look at it. In this quarter you can buy lots of souvenirs so there are quite a few tourists. But it isn't too crowdy and the atmosphere is rather comfortable, supported by street performers. Jinyoung showed me one of the places she loves to go to, a teahouse which was a good place to relax.

And...

It was also in July, by the end of the month, that I finally got my E2-visa! And since I'm staying more than 90 days I'm now the owner of an "Alien card" ;o)

July

I didn't write as much or as frequently as I wanted to so here's a short review on last month. In August I will be trying to catch more ordinary experiences from daily life which seems to become more and more difficult since I got settled in quite well so far. How fast this happens...

I have less than two months left - half time next week!

During the first weeks I haven't met so many but a few real nice people. I get along very well with Lena - almost every day I see her at work and sometimes she waits for me to get back from work to have a late dinner together. We're mostly having our beloved Sun Du Bu Ji Gae which get a single entry soon ;o)

Every first Friday in a month KOPRA is having a meeting. In July some people met on Namsan hill beneath the TV tower which was illuminated by a fantastic laser show. We had a lot of fun til the moment when one of us ended up tragically in a bike accident but things seem to be getting better for him now. What a great easygoing night it was at first...

There were quite a few rainy days this month but the rainy season was much acceptable than I thought it would be. No continuous precipitation! And fresh air, over and over again after hot days. But unfortunately I also had to stay home a few times and cancel what I had planned to do.

But I still got to see some of Seoul. I was around Hongjik University which has a famous Art faculty and a lot of small cafés and tiny, by Korean standards alternative shops in its neighbourhood. Here and there you can discover a book or art store and from time to time a lovely decorated flowershop. At some corners some anonymous artists have left their marks. Nearby you will find Chinatown and another foreigners' district and also Prague "castle" isn't far ;o)

I went out with Koreans a few times, so I had dinner with some students from my B2-class after our course on a rainy Saturday. Another time I had delicious barbecue and I finally tried a Korean drink called Baek Sae Ju.

Last saturday I went out for lunch in Insadong with some colleagues. Because of the rain I only got a few impressions from this quarter while we were eating (me: Bibimbap for the first time) and having some coffee later on. It was quite nice with them, they speak German so well but somehow there's something missing and we don't seem to have a lot of things in common...

That was July though. Tomorrow I'll be having a visitor, maybe - if so I'll be reporting soon...

The facts. Part II

Now I will give you some information about the prices so you see how much things cost here. It's far cheaper than I thought it would be. According to the current price 1600 Won are equal to one Euro. You will find a currency converter when you scroll down to the bottom of the page.

Monthly rent in my Goshiwon (everything, also Internet, included):

290.000 Won

Hotpot or barbecue (for two people, luscious):

ca. 20.000 Won

A fresh salad with chicken in a Western restaurant:

14.000 Won

The lonely-planet-language guide:

9900 Won

A whole-grain bread at Hyattsbakery:

6000 Won (50% discount after 9.30 pm)

One cappuccino in a café-chain:

3000-4000 Won

One simple warm meal (bowl with rice and vegetables or noodles; soup; dumplings):

3000-4000 Won

One beer (in a bar):

3000 Won

One washing at "24h Coin Wash":

2500 Won

Six peaches/ big plums/ nectarines:

ab 2000 Won

One roll with sausage or cheese in our cafeteria:

1800 Won

One beer (in a shop):

1600 Won

One double sandwich:

ab 1500 Won

One French cruller (Dunkin Donuts):

1100 Won

One (delicious and indispensable ;o) freshly squeezed fruitjuice:

1000 Won

One freshly baked wafer with icecream:

1000 Won

One ride with public transports(till 12km, including transfers):

900 Won

One 500ml-pack of strawberry milk:

900 Won

One 2l-bottle of mineral water:

ab 800 Won

One pack of Kimbab:

700-1000 Won

One whiteboard marker:

700 Won

One cinnamon bread on the street:

500 Won

One pack of probiotic yoghurt (6 bottles):

400 Won

(... to be continued...)

Not a bad place to live... ;o)

The facts. Part I

I haven't told you about my schedule yet. I've been teaching three classes for two weeks now: A1 (beginners), B1 and B2 (advanced students). I'm sharing the beginners' class with a Korean colleague. Until now I had two courses a week, 1-4.30 pm; from next week I'll be teaching this intensive class with 16 students three times. The rather reserved students are starting to open themselves and as in China it's the girls being more active than their male mates which are sitting around quite serious and silent.

My extensive classes are being held each evening from 7 til 9.30 pm, b1 on b2 in turns. That means, on some days I'm off til the evening. I also teach on Saturday mornings and some people feel sorry for me teaching "that much" - but that's absolutely okay and actually what I came here for! And my class (9.30-12 pm) is very nice.

Many of my higher level students have already been to Europe. Some studied in Germany or went to school for several years. They are very open and most of them speak German very well. Even some of them who haven't been to Germany, only with a noticable accent. The ones without an accent (mostly younger, very talkative and influenced by slang) have problems with grammar instead.

Teaching is very comfortable. The conditions are ideal and principally everything is well-organized. Mainly the students in advanced levels are highly motivated. Step by step I've been learning their names and hopefully I will be able soon to call them by thier first names. "Mr. Lee" and "Mrs. Kim" is much easier and by now I know who is who - it's just that there are up to three or four Kims and Lees in each class ;o)

18th July

Today it's been one month since I came here! Time has passed so fast... And nothing is missing, as you cam see on the pictures ;o)

You'll find more new pictures in the slide show at the right bar.

Big city. Daily routines

Taking umbrella and sunglasses, buying a sandwich in 7/11, waiting for green at the big road while eating, heading for the juice booth - strawberry, apple/carrot, orange... - rushing down the subway steps and avoiding rushing or verrrrry slow Koreans, putting the card on the ticket machine at the barrier - beep, 900 Won drawn off - standing on the escalators, NOT stopping in front of the big mirror as everyone else, handling the last steps, waiting for the train - still drinking juice, descrying a seat and taking it as fast as possible, continuing to drink, taking out the book and reading, riding for about fifteen minutes, announcement, stopping, departing... - getting off at Hangangjin, up the stairs, NOT stopping in front of the mirror, taking the escalator, buying one or to Kimbabs for the afternoon, throwing juice cup into the only available bin, passing the barrier, card on the ticket machine, stairs to get outside, waiting for the green us no. 14, getting on, nodding to the driver, validating the card, finding a seat or being shaked, passing the Norwegian embassy, then the Danish one, pushing the button after ten minutes for "Huam Yak Sun", validating card, getting off, walking under trees for about five minutes, crossing the street and...

... arriving Goetheinstitut. Working.

21.40. Walking slowly to the bus stop, waiting for the bus, getting on, nodding to the driver, hopefully finding a seat, getting off at subway station after ten minutes, validating card before that and saying good-bye to students, walking down the stairs, validating card and passing the barrier, going down the escalator, NOT stopping in front of the mirror, going down to the platform, taking seat on a bench, reading and waiting for the train, finding a seat, continuing to read, departure, announcement, stopping, departing..., getting off at Anam after fifteen minutes, validating card and passing the barrier, strolling up the stairs, all way up, going home, greeting the porter, taking shoes off and slippers on, unlocking my room, turning on the computer...

... and maybe having dinner with Lena later on, or a beer.

And this, every day... ;o)

Walks

Already yesterday I wanted to head for the foreigners' district Itaewon (not far from Goetheinstitut) but I got off the right way when having turned left too early. Today I finally ended up in the street where numberless Western restaurants and cafés are strung together and where you will meet a foreigner here and there. Including US-soldiers in uniform, how strange... In front of a few shops the sellers will talk to you but alltogether this quarter is quite likable and good for having a beer.

The library

One of the first thing in a new place is always finding bookstores and a library. I had already taken a look at Goetheinstitut's library a while ago but today I decided to borrow a book. As everyone else I need a card and while this was issued the curious employee asked me many things.



From now on you can see on the right bar what I'm reading and listening to at the moment. That's most likely borrowed from our library!

Healthy!

Today I could get my medical report. In the beginning it was kind of difficult to find the right counter - in this huge hospital I had gone the right direction but at the wrong floor! I asked someone at the information desk who only spoke a few words English but followed me; after a while we had found it, she didn't seem to know where it was and had to ask other people... But then, everything went quite fast, I got my papers and only needed the (red!) stamp on it, as well as a seal upon my picture. Now I've got all I need for my working permit!

Ddal gi

I have learned my first real word in Korean! Well, Gamsa Hamnida (thank you) I've got accustomed to after having heard it so many times but now I also know the important ddalgi (strawberry ;o) I'm addicted to strawberry juice... And I simlpy don't want to point at it saying "strawberry" when I'm buying one. I'm highly motivated to learn the other fruits' names for trying the other kinds. Wasn't it how it started with Chinese? Cao mei!

Little by little I'm also getting used to the alphabet which means I'm able to read a few words - but not understand all of them... Wow, every language has something new to offer!

The passed days

On Friday my pre-course was finished and it was a nice Good-bye with cakes and cookies. The students thanked me and asked which of the following intensive courses I would be teaching. They have chosen different ones because of their schedules and I had the feeling that we all were a little sad about "breaking up". (And that's now when I finally know their names ;o)

On Saturday morning me and my Korean colleagues worked on correcting exams - the reading, listening and grammar parts of 'ZD'. A little boring, this template correction but still fun since we were sitting together in the teachers' lounge.

After work I walked down the hill towards downtown and discovered the following:

Seoul is swarmed with Italian restaurants and here you can also eat Genoese. I'm gonna try that one day!

I'v been strolling across Namdaemun market, the largest in town and the city centre. I discovered quite a few nice places which I want to get back to. What I like about Seoul are all the small restaurants and numberless bars and cafés.

Saturday night I've had a little mishap - I just got back from dinner at Lena's and Tina's place and shortly before going to bed I went to the bathroom just one more time. When I got back I wasn't able to unlock my door and suddenly the lock was broken and nothing worked at all. I had to wake up the porter who started to screw and draw around my lock, rather akwardly. Finally he called the "reparation student" (I just call him like this because he already fixed my internet connection once ;o) This guy went outside, entered my room by the window and opened the door from inside. But they decided not to repair it anymore that night, it was already 1.30. If I had had the chance I would have unscrewed the lock myself... When I then heard "I think you better (aaaaah!) change the room" I went along with their first idea and slept in my room with the keys inside the lock, locking the door from the inside.

On Sunday someone came to change the lock in the morning - I had insisted not to wait until Monday. Then I would have had... Well, it would have been so long winded but they hadn't thought that far.

Like this I could spend my Sunday afternoon outside and went to the Campus and the hills behind. How beautiful and quiet it is over there! Sometimes I was all alone... And enjoyed the fresh air and the view over Seoul:

Yesterday there was another exam correction, this time the essays. Thinking is required... I finally met my boss who had just returned from Pyongyang. Together we went through some sample corrections which was very helpful. When we had finished correcting after four hours I could hardly write anymore ;o)

In the evening I went out for dinner with my colleagues. It was Tina's last night here because she returned to Germany this morning where she'll spend the summer. We went to a small restaurant and I had an incredibly delicious, slightly spicy soup with tofu, dumplings, scrambled eggs and mussels - accompanied by many small bowls of side dishes. And I remember the soup's name: Su Man Du So Du Bu ;o)

Students' protests

Just a short note before I'm going to write more later on. Probably you have heard about the stuents' protests in Seoul which by the time have become characterized by violence and fights with the police. Don't worry - since I don't live in the centre I'm far away from all that and have only read about it on the internet. Tonight I saw some pictures on TV in a restaurant for the first time and was shocked...

Another video

Since I haven’t taken any pictures during the last days or concerning the last post, here there’s a „nice“ video about Seoul:

Strawberry juice!

So, now there’s finally a new entry. Yesterday I got to know that I had to take another health record, from a Korean doctor – the international health certificate from our lovely public health officer in Greifswald wasn’t sufficient anyway, even though it was issued in English.

Otherwise all the other required documents are accepted – the criminal record with apostille (aaaah…) has arrived yesterday from Germany and the lawyer had negotiatet that we don’t need any University lecture transcripts any longer. For me, these would have been the only missing thing and damned me to work off the books because they would have been almost impossible to get from here.

So I went to Korean University Hospital with Tina today. It was so nice from here; without any knowledge of Korean it would have been difficult for me. And she already knew the procedure – and staffs there recognized her at once. I was so lucky – instead of expected two or thee hours everything didn’t take longer than fifteen minutes:

measuring height, size and blood pressure, testing view, paying 96.000 won, x-raying lungs, giving urine sample – and, kept for the end – taking blood. And the latter went like clockwork… Taking a number and then a seat at a long office-kind-of-table with five chairs (à la assembly line or like in an Italian post or bank office), putting the arm on it, and in a jiffy, getting up again. And out!

Drinking a fresh squeezed strawberry juice and strolling across Korean University’s campus… After my last test in Greifswald, only two weeks ago, I had almost fainted because of my cold, stress and the heat, I was quite apprehensive – and when I then hadn’t even seen a couch in the room, oh dear…! But I was soooo brave ;o)

On Tuesday I will get my results and I hope they won’t me consider being to tall for being allowed to work in Korea nor find anything serious in all these tests…

The juice booth which Tina had shown me was THE discovery – there you can get a wonderful refreshing mix from any kinds of fruits and ice for only 1000 won (!)and without any stomach trouble. I’m a little sceptic about things like that… But from now on I will go there every day – it’s just around the corner, beside the subway station.

Tina also showed me the campus, how impressive it is – next time I will take pictures there. After having eaten in the students dining hall (me: squid soup, hmmm!) we went back home. I prepared my class, went to work and had a nice evening with my class. Suddenly, in the first break, they came up with many different kinds of cake and now on day four I had the feeling that the atmosphere among people had unclenched a lot.

So we stroke up a conversation during the second break and my curiousness („Why do you learn German?“, “Do you plan to go to Germany?”) was rewarded with counterquestions like “Why did you come to Korea?”, “Oh, you’ve been to China – do you speak Chinese?” and they really made me say a sentence ;o)

I’d be glad to continue to teach these guys – temporarily this is only the pre-course which will be finished already by tomorrow.

First class

Last night I had my first class. I teach every evening this week, from 5.15 till 9.15, a pre-course for another intense course in July. There are 12 beginners and except two women they’re students. But I don’t know much about them so far. They’re nice and even if they’re quite reserved – especially the guys – we have been laughing a lot. They also got used to class room activities, after initial hesitations – I’m only asking myself when I’ll be able to get used to their names? There are three times the same last names (Lee and Kim) but the first names are so complicated. But I will try, it worked out in China as well!

I noticed that the German pronounciation seemes to be easier for Koreans than Chinese; the sounds in our languages must be similar though. But there is no [f]! Lucky, my students already know that from learning English!

Lemon tree - Korean version

I wouldn't want to deny you the (probable) Korean sommer hit. Heeeelp – I have heard that all too often, suspiciously…

Soccer and barbecue

Tonight there was the exciting soccer match between North and South Korea. Exciting because of the fact that North Korea had refused to play on South Korean ground only a week ago and suggested neutral territory only a week ago. But now the match was being held here.

[Exciting not in the sense of a good soccer match, rather boring… And why would they always scream out loud “Toooor” (German (?) for “goal”) whenever the ball gets somehow close to the goal? We would only do that for a score ;o)]

Some people watched the game on the streets – we did in a restaurant with huge screen. I would have loved to go to the World-Cup-stadium where some spectators were holding up the all-Korean flag, a huge one!

In the restaurant weh ad some barbecue – on a metal plate in the middle of the table. I knew this Korean-style barbecue from China but to wrap the meat into lettuce leaves, with sauce, pickled vegetables and some rice was a new experience to me.

Second walk around town

Today Lena and I went to a shopping district which was swarmed with mostly young people. Here a lot reminded of China and exactly here it becomes clear what is happening in China right now. Much of Seoul’s commercial face is simply spilled over to Chinese cities; Kitsch & Co. have been copied and imitated by the Chinese. Here you’ll find all that in even bigger dimensions – and I thought that China was extreme…! On one side I mean the offered products in their kind and quantities but also the shopping-and-selling-mentality on the other one. The latter is defined by “loud (flashy) and colourful (also flashy)” and shops, where young sellers are clapping their hands to yell for customers, are additionally showered with noisy “music”. But like this you won’t convince people to buy things, you might think, Europeans would be scared off…? And that’s what we haven’t got so far…

Sunday lunch

That’s what I had for lunch today, I HAD to try it and it wasn’t too bad. To have something like this at home on a Sunday is quite practical… But later I’ll go outside and tonight we’re going to have a real meal again – hopefully soccer besides: there will be the qualification match between North and South Korea for the next world championships and this historical event I can’t miss. Unfortunately I’ve got no one to come to the stadium… )o;

Riding the subway

Taking the subway in Seoul is quite easy to do. If you take a look at the whole network it seems to be quite unmanageable, but in detail you’ll find your way around very well. There are maps everywhere and fortunately the station names are written in latin alphabet as well. And there are station numbers which help. “127” is the 27th stop of line no. 1 and the following stations are indicated by numbers. Like this you can’t go the wrong direction – and don’t necessarily have to use the final station’s name for orientation.

A ride costs 900 won by using the rechargeable card or 1000 when buying the ticket at the counter. So far the trains had been quite empty and mostly I got a seat. Wonder how’s this going to be when I’ll be taking the subway to work in the mornings…

One tricky thing are the exits – one station can have up to ten. But if you feel like not being able to deal with that (like me walking up and down again several times ;o) – there are still the station maps which prevent you from getting totally lost at the end ;o)

Government crisis

As always I chose the right moment to come to a country. As you may have heard or read in the news (which you’ll also find at the bottom of this page), South Korea is in the middle of a government crisis for the moment. There are many demonstrations and rallies going on.

It’s mainly about the lifting of the embargo for beef from the U.S. But there seem to be other reasons for the public to be angry at and against the government which I haven’t seen through completely, so far.

First discovery tour

Yesterday I took the subway towards downtown, got off at the East gate and walked into the centre. At first it was quite confusing, even using the map, to find the right direction and I couldn’t either see where the sun was. Smog or steam, who know’s…?

I walked along the little river which runs parallel to the street I actually wanted to take. Here they did something good for the city by removing a road and substitute it by a lot of green and this little creek. So, beside the hills, here you’ll find another oasis in this huge city – used by many walkers.

In small side roads and on squares there are markets which remind of China – starting from the atmosphere till the things offered there: clothes, including socks; watches, jewellery and sunglasses as well as snacks and drinks here and there.

And also here it seems to be usual to have meals during work time and right in or in front of the shop. I had seen several people with tablets with many small bowls – the common way of eating as I’ve already seen in the restaurants.

Even though the most buildings are modern buildings from the eighties, once in a while you’ll discover small, older houses. But these lie completely hidden behind their tall brothers and appear as quite neglected.